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Chandler Walk ~ South
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Main Noticeboard.
OWRNP is now 142 000 hectares and growing, as people sell off
grazing land that is no longer economic. Both walks start from this
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- Wollomombi Wattle Acacia blakei subspecies
diphylla
. Have people feel the 'leaves' - firm, a
little leathery, with longitudinal veins. Note flowers, seedpods
if present- typical wattle, with the leaf-stalk taking over the
functions of a leaf, and without the stomates - the breathing
pores through which plants lose water. So wattles can live in
seasonally dry places.
Restricted to Northern Tablelands gorges.
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Gorge Mock-Olive
Notolea microcarpa subspecies velutinea is a small bush
with opposite +/- velvety leaves that grows in on the steep sides of
gorges in the New England. It is in the same family as the
commercial European olive, and produces similar fruit. |
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Green Wattle Acacia irrorata.
Have people feel leaves (Eyes closed), compare to
the phyllodes of Wollomombi Wattle. This plant keeps its juvenile
leaves into maturity. Sometimes planted in gardens, with golden
balls of flowers in November to January – and sometimes also in
winter like most other wattles |
Lichen on railings beside
track. Note the difference between the top of rail (flat Crustose
lichen) and the side (thick Foliose lichen). Also look at lichen on
nearby dead tree. Which type? Evidence of the thick mists that
sometimes roll up from the gorge, allowing many plants to survive
without putting roots deep into the soil Rainfall here 30-40 inches
(750-1000mm) per year. |
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From Falls Lookout. The
major (left ) fall is on the Wollomombi River- the name is a
corruption of the local Aboriginal word "Walloumbi", meaning
'meeting of waters'. The right fall - and the joined river- is named
after Chandler, an early shepherd. New squatters were advised to
talk to "the Beardies"- Chandler and his partner Duval- for advice
on where to establish their runs. So we have the Chandler River,
Chandlers Peak, Mount Duval, Duval College at UNE... |
The bottom is about
260 metres below the plateau,
and the main drop of Wollomombi Falls is about
100 metres. "The underlying
rocks in Wollomombi are like a layer cake. On the bottom is a layer
of very old- about 400 million years
old- rocks that have been folded down." This very
old rock is rather fragile, so climbers don't like it very much - it
gives way at bad moments. The knife-edge ridge is where climbers get
out after abseiling in. |
At the Checks Lookout track sign- there are 700
plus different Eucalypts in Australia. People
divide them into - Roughbark (Box, Stringybark, Ironbark, ) and
Smoothbarks (Gums). Fortunately there are only 4 along this walk,
the first visible from this point. |
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Silvertop Stringybark (
E. laevopinea) - edge of gorge. Note the bark on trunk and large
limbs (it can be pulled off in long 'strings'),and the smooth,
silvery top branches (hence the common name). The fruit has wide
disc and slightly exserted valves. |
Pick up a bit of the rock from the path. It will
split easily along layers- sedimentary rock,
originally formed under water. Very poor soil due to its great age
and the subsequent loss of many useful minerals. |
The Australian Indigo (Indigofera
australis) in the photo is one of several Pea Flower plants that
grow along the walk. Peas have nodules on their roots that
manufacture nitrogen, so they have their own inbuilt "Fertilizer
Factory" to help them cope with the poor soil. |
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Snow Grass Poa
sieberiana is very common along the path. Makes excellent
shelter for small marsupials e.g. Marsupial Mice. |
Sign -Carpark. Around here
you often see the little purple- flowered Austral Bugle Ajuga
australis |
Bluebells (Wahlenbergia
luteola) are found all along the edge of the path, and flower
for a long time around Easter. |
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Cabbage Gum (E.
amplifolia) is the common Smoothbark along the bit of the track
after the above junction. Note the very exserted valves on the
fruit. |
The Australian Bugle
(Ajuga australis) is a plant about 15 cm high with
a pretty little purple (blue, pink, white…) flower that is very
widespread in the New England. Leaves are
up to 12 centimetres long, blueish-purple underneath with toothed
margins, growing in a basal rosette around the stem. |
Yellow Box Eucalyptus
melliodora- great honey tree, with highly variable bark-
sometimes firmly rough box bark, sometimes loose, and sometimes with
a lot of the trunk smooth. Always though there is a trace of yellow
about it, and.. the red-wine glass shape of the fruit, and the
definite vein running about 3 mm away, and parallel to, the leaf
edge are good identifying features. |
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Native Cherry Exocarpos
cupressiformes. This sickly specimen is often a very attractive
shrub or bushy tree -cupressiformes refers to its resemblance
to Cypresses. It is a root parasite on Eucalypts. Note the leafless
green stalks. The tiny flower has yellow 'petals' less than 1 mm
long. After flowering, the stalk swells into a 4-8 mm yellow or red
oval with a slightly smaller seed stuck on the end of it -
exocarpos means "outside seed". |
Echidna Tachyglossus
aculeatus- A big ball of spines! There are lots of diggings into
the track edge – e.g. at the base of the Native Cherry . You can
identify it by the wide low nature of the hole- Echidnas dig like a
breast- stroker swims. A toothless, highly
specialised feeder on ants, termites, beetle larvae and other soil
invertebrates. |
OWRNP has 90% of the Brush-tailed
Rock Wallaby Petrogale pencillata . They live on the
steep slopes, and were being driven to extinction by competition
with feral goats. The NPWS began a program of releasing Judas goats
(with attached radio collar), tracking them , and shooting the other
goats from a helicopter. Now the wallabies are coming back. (Shot
taken 6.30 am early April from the track to Checks Lookout) |
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Superb Lyrebirds
scratch over litter looking for the ground-dwelling insects,
spiders, frogs, and other small invertebrates that they eat. Their
weak wings allow very limited flight. They can convincingly mimic
other birds, chainsaws, camera-shutters, and almost anything else.
The film used to show their mimicry in David Attenborough's "Life of
Birds" was largely shot at Point Lookout in New England NP. |
Checks Lookout turnoff with
Native Broom Jacksonia scoparia, the
grey leafless 3 metre shrub. The branches were attached to handles
and used to sweep out early settler’s huts. A member of the Pea
family, and like other peas, manufactures nitrogen in root nodules.
So here is a plant that has no stomates to lose water, and has its
own fertilizer factory- no wonder it grows so well here. |
- Minute Moss
growing over the rocks and soil going down to Checks has no deep
roots to draw up water. Instead, it responds instantly (2
seconds !), turning bright green and visibly growing when water
is dropped on a dried-out section (e.g. near the tip of the
stick). Takes advantage of the frequent mists as well as
rainfall in the area.
- (On big dry sections, you can
write your name with a wet sponge.)
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Gorge Wattle
Acacia ingrami growing as a natural bonsai on the left of the
track just before Checks Lookout platform. This plant is common in
the OWRNP gorge edges, and is a blaze of gold in September. However,
it is rare everywhere else. Growing under garden conditions it is a
leggy, very unattractive straggly tree about 5 metres high. Maybe a
point about adversity bringing out beauty in some plants -and
people? |
Grevillea
granulifera (No Common Name), a rare species growing
against the right side of the lookout platform. Good opportunity to
discuss the role of NPWS in conserving such plants- may be useful to
people in a number of ways, e.g. as a source of medicine (Film
“Medicine Man”), as a horticultural subject, or as a perhaps
important part of the area’s ecology. |
Grasstree (Xanthorrhoea
sp). Fires are uncommon in Inaccessible Gulf. But as Grasstrees
are slow-growing (roughly a centimetre every three years) and
long-lived, they need fire defences. First the dry skirt burns, and
this chars the trunk, leaving a 50 mm + layer of leaf stems to
insulate the inner parts. All other leaves are burnt off, but three
months later fresh new green ones appear. The flower stalk is about
2 metres long! |
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Checks Lookout.
The photo displayed at the platform end was taken by Mr Check in
early days from this point. The platform was built by Miley Sawtell,
Jeff Paul (and others) who designed a special sulky-like cart to get
the heavy timbers onto site. (During the day, the gorge walls heat
up, and , as hot air rises, the wind tends to blow up the gorge in
the late afternoon, making the holes in the pipe top rail “sing”). |
Cathedral Rock National
Park on the horizon. About 250 million
years ago, granite forced its way up and is exposed as big tors
there. Round Mountain (1586 metres) is the highest point between the
Australian Alps and Mt Bartle Frere(1622 m) in Queensland. The
summit is basalt, from the lava flows of 18-25 million years ago. A
DCA tracking station bars entry to the very top. |
Wedge-Tailed Eagles,
even Sea Eagles, ride the thermals here. The white splash on the
orange exposed face to the right of the buttress are droppings from
Peregrine Falcons that nest here. One party
saw a full-powered dive with the peregrine hitting a Wedgie,
bursting feathers from it to warn it away from the nest, and then
giving its “Kek-kek-kek” warning call. Peregrines have been timed -
by a fellow who trained one to chase the lure he held when jumping
from a plane- at over 300 km/hour in a dive. |
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Dry Rainforest
on the eastern gorge side, from Checks. So far, about 190 species
have been found pretty well confined to this plant formation in
Oxley Wild Rivers, and this has lead to its inclusion in the World
Heritage list. |
The well-formed path after Checks
Lookout, with Lomandra and Snow Grass under eucalypt woodland.
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The view down into Inaccessible Gulf
from Map Grid 070.210. Grey metamorphosed rock – turned on its side
after being laid down millions of years ago, patches of green Dry
Rainforest , and the river far below. |
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Westringia ‘Wollomombi Falls’
is one of the many plants that can only be found on the edges and
cliffs of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park. |
The path, lined here with Australian Indigo and Snow Grass, starts
to head down about 700 metres after Checks turnoff. |
The Sticky Daisy Bush (Olearia
viscidula). George Bentham in his Flora
Australiensis in 1867 named it, and I suspect he did so from a
dried specimen, as it only becomes ‘viscid’ (sticky) when dried. The
annoying part is that other similar Olearias are sticky when
you find them in the field, but the name is already taken. |
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Tall Hakea (Hakea eriantha) is
easy to recognise by its long narrow leaves and fruit that looks
like a snail in profile. I’ve seen open fruit stuffed with cotton
wool and used for Christmas decorations! |
Forest Nightshade (Solanum
vicinum) has prickles on everything except the fruit and the
flower. ‘Vicinum’ in Latin means ‘nearby, a neighbour’- as used in
the Latin proverb “
aliquid
mali
propter
vicinum
malum
“ (bad
comes
of a bad neighbour). It certainly would make a bad neighbour, as
you’ll find if you brush up against it! |
The path starts
to narrow and the ridge steepens as you go on from here. Take care! |
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Native
Sarsparilla (Hardenbergia violaceae) often grows, along with
other peaflowers, in nitrogen-starved areas like this. The False
Sarsaparilla name comes from a belief that the roots were similar to
sarsaparilla and could be ground to make the syrup used for
cordials. I wouldn’t try it in any quantity! |
From here, the
walking gets much harder. The ladies in the photo had three tough
days ahead of them before climbing up to the tops again in the
Jeogla area.
(Photo Chris
Cooper)
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Inaccessible
Gulf, from 068. 205- near its bottom end- you need to be a good
canyoner to head up into it.
(Photo Chris
Cooper)
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